Life in the Philippines - Traffic & crossing roads
Now normally I wouldn’t read something written about such a boring topic let alone write it … but here in Manila it is so different as to be worthy of a post.
First the Traffic. There are so many cars, Jeepney’s, SUV’s, Taxis, scooters, and random other strange vehicles that what appears to be fog on the road is actually smog. When looking across Shaw blvd the buildings and people on the other side of the road actually are blurred by the smog.
Now Shaw Blvd is 2 lanes in either direction but there is almost never only 2 vehicles wide travelling in both directions. More often than not there will be 3 or even 4 wide … plus an assortment to motorbikes, scooters, and bicycles weaving around everything and everybody. While it appears extremely dangerous to my western eyes I have to admit I have yet to see any accident. However, this is little comfort when the taxi you are in does a seemingly illigal U-turn across 6 lanes of bumper to bumper traffic in the middle of rush hour while you close your eyes and suddenly pray that a god you didn’t believe in 5 minutes ago will suddenly save you!
In my entire walk home … approximately 30 to 45 minutes long … I only come across a single traffic light and I walk down a major road most of the way. So, as a pedestrian there are some very unique challenges in the seemingly simple task of crossing shaw blvd.
In 2 weeks of walking around here I have come to a few conclusions.
1. Never be first or last in a group crossing any road unless you have no choice.
2. No matter where you are walking, including the sidewalk, be ready for anything when you hear somebody honk their horn. Typically the horn seems to be used to announce to all other drivers and pedestrians alike that the driver is about to do something stupid … so everybody have better watch out. Really … this is TOTALLY TRUE.
3. As you cross a major road it is really a subtle negotiation with each line of vehicles as you cross. You announce your intention to cross the road by stepping into the edge of the path of the first car. If they acknowledge you by swerving either way then you are safe to actually cross his path. But … only his path. You then must negotiate with the second line of cars now. If this car does not acknowledge you then you can either chance that you are faster or wait where you are. This means in effect that you will NEVER actually make it across in one fell swoop, instead you are always stuck part way or half way with cars and trucks whizzing by on all sides. Inevitably you feel like some portion of your anatomy is sticking out too far and in danger of being lost forever … or worse … your laptop bag !
Night makes this challenge much harder as vehicle lighting seems to mearly be a suggested practice here and when you put that first daring foot forward onto the road you had better be VERY sure that dark shadow is not actually a car, truck, or Jeepney bearing down on you. The Rule of the road here is that all drivers assume they have the right of way on the road, the side streets, and the sidewalks. It truely is pedestrian beware.
Cars and trucks are actually safe seeming after your first encounter with a transit bus! OMG … they have massively loud air horns and they ONLY EVER brake for other vehicles. The only time I have ever seen locals running is when they tried to cross when they shouldn’t have and suddenly the air is filled with a deafening thunder of horns and the roar of the bus engine as he accelerates. I swear they actually try to hit the pedestrians … and they run …. hard, for their very lives I am sure. I stood rooted to the sidewalk as the buses roared by doing about 80 kph … very glad that I had not followed my own rule of trying to be in the middle of the pack. That was definately not the pack to be in today.